If you are interested in Yemen lizards, you may be wondering if they can be handled or loveable pets. It’s a good thing to check before you commit. I had similar thoughts and looked into this. Let me share my findings with you.
Do the Yemen chameleons like to be handled? No, they really do not like being handled. If you attempt to handle one of these lizards they may bite or inflate their body to appear larger to repel you. You may find that the hatchling will be a bit more accommodating.
Now you know, in general, they don’t like being handled. But is there any chance that they can be tamed and handled? Let me explain how this can be done. But let me also explain what you need to be careful about if you want to do this.
— Tyrannosaurus Pets (@T_PETS) August 14, 2017
The Yemen chameleon (Chamaeleo Calyptratus) is more commonly known as the Veiled Chameleon, however, it is also known as the conehead Chameleon. Its native habitat is in Saudi Arabia or Yemen.
The male Yemen can grow up to 24 inches, from the tip of his nose to the end of its tail. For females, they are quite a bit smaller, and they usually grow up to 14 inches in length.
Generally speaking, they are not very aggressive lizards. In fact, they are quite calm and laid back. So laid back in fact, that you will often find that they move quite slowly. They may even slow down their walking if they feel that you are watching them for some bizarre reason.
The baby Yemen lizard is also quite laid back and relaxed and it’s probably more susceptible to being handled.
Before I get into an explanation of how you can handle these beautiful lizards, as discussed earlier, in general, they do not really like to be handled. In fact, you should really treat them like fish. Meaning you should enjoy them visually but not physically engage with them.
As discussed earlier, you can train them to be more susceptible to being handled, however, this is more likely to be successful if they’re younger. This way they’ve never been pre-conditioned to not want to be around humans.
The main reason that the adult Yemen, in particular, is quite resistant to being handled is for the obvious reasons. Basically, it believes any physical contact of the human is typically followed up by a swift attack, and maybe even death.
So do not take it personally, it is just a defense mechanism from the Yemen Lizard to protect itself.
Now I will explain how you can handle them if you wish to proceed.
Unfortunately, most people have a natural urge to handle their chameleon as soon as they bring it home. However, you need to do the complete opposite.
You need to give the Yemen sometime to break-in. Give it time to respond to his new environment and feel comfortable. You can expect this to last for at least 1 to 2 weeks before you even consider moving on to the next step.
Once you have passed the initial break-in period of one to two weeks, as discussed before, you can move on to the next step which is hand feeding.
Hand feeding is a gradual process. You can’t just wack some food in front of your Yemen and expect it to feed from you. You need to give it some time. The first thing that you want to do is just offer it some food. But, do not try and push your hand towards it.
To achieve this, you can use your naked hand or you can use some apparatus. Such as a pair of tweezers or some metal serving tongs. These are great for people that are a bit squeamish and do not really like handling insects.
Once the food is placed in the vicinity of the lizard, give it some time to see if it will actually take the food. Just keep your hand near it, so that it can start to associate your hand with providing food. In time it will start to associate your hand with a positive part of its day.
This part of the journey to hand feeding could take a couple of weeks before you see any real breakthroughs. Initially, it may just ignore you because it is frightened. In time it will start to feel a bit more confident.
For the best results, I’d advise that you attempt to feed it this way on the first feeding of the day. Reason being, they are generally starving at this point in the day and more likely to take the food.
The objective here is to let the Yemen lizard come out of its cage on its own accord and naturally approach you after you’ve had success with hand feeding it.
To make sure that this goes as smooth as possible you need to be very patient. Therefore,
you need to make sure that they come out of their hiding place on their own accord and not forced out.
One of the things that you can do is to literally leave the cage open. Then place an object just outside of the cage. This can be a tree, plant or something that may arouse some interest.
Give it some time, maybe do something to entertain yourself while you wait, such as checking your email or something like that. This may take days or even weeks, so don’t be disheartened if it doesn’t respond right away.
If you do this right, in time it will naturally react to you. After a while, you should be able to open the cage, offer your hand and allow it to walk onto your hand naturally.
One of the things that you can do to make this happen a lot smoother is rewarding your lizard for coming out and interacting with you. Basically, associate this simple act of interacting with you with happy treats.
You can do this simply by having some food nearby or even giving them an opportunity to bask in some lovely sunlight whenever they come out.
In time, with persistence, they will start to enjoy coming out.
The reality is not every chameleon will react positively to these steps. As discussed earlier, they are not naturally susceptible to being handled. And some will never really want to do this. So, you need to take this on a case-by-case basis.
Give it a shot and if it works, wonderful! If not then there’s nothing you can really do about it. The reality is not every Yemen chameleon will react positively to these steps.
If you are going to do this seriously, you need to give it some time. You can’t just try for 1 or 2 days, say it doesn’t work and then give up. You need to give yourself a number of weeks at least to evaluate if it successful.
Are Chameleons kind to humans? Chameleons do not naturally trust humans. So they are not the ideal beginner pet. They are not necessarily aggressive or unkind to humans, but they do not really like to be handled and do not trust humans.
Will chameleons recognize their owners? Yes, they can recognize their owners. However, their emotions are quite hard to read and gauge. Unlike dogs or cats, there is no obvious sign of happiness or affection.
Therefore, the closest thing that you can do to understand if they recognize or trust you, is to check how they react to you. Will they come towards you? and allow you to handle them? Or are they are willing to take food from you? If yes, then you have the proof they recognize and trust you.
Why are piebald chameleons also known as Coneheads in some cases? The piebald chameleon is effectively the same as a veiled (or Yemen) chameleon. In fact, the only real difference its distinctive color scheme. As discussed earlier another alias for the Yemen lizard is “Cone Head”. Hence the reason why the Piebald is also known as the Cone Head Lizard.
Is a chameleon’s bite poisonous? No, the Chameleons’ bite it is not poisonous. To be perfectly honest, the bite is not really that bad at all. You can easily survive a bite from a chameleon.
If you have considered getting a Chinese Water Dragon as a pet, then you should know by now that UVB lighting is an absolute must. The question is, which one? Let me explain.
What is the best UVB Bulb for Chinese Water Dragon? The Zoo Med ReptiSun T5 Bulb (Click to see the price on Amazon) is the best UVB bulb in my opinion. There are other competing bulbs on the market like the mercury vapor bulbs but there are concerns about their UV intensity.
Now you know which UVB light I recommend, what other options are there? Why do the Water Dragons even need these lights? What happens if they don’t get these UV rays? Let me give you an answer to these questions now and more.
The Chinese water dragon is from a very hot climate therefore, naturally, it is used to receiving large amounts of UVB rays.
To make sure that you emulate its natural environment you need to make sure that you provide a large number of UVB rays.
Fluorescent lighting is a good source of UVB for your water dragon. The best way is to use a reflector so that none of the important UVB rays are wasted.
When purchasing these fluorescent bulbs, it is a good idea to make sure that they are specifically for desert species like the Chinese Water Dragon.
There are two different types of fluorescent bulbs that you can get:
The T5 is the newer improved model and as you can expect, it has better specs. In particular, it has double the range of the T8 model and can also last twice as long.
Meaning you will need to replace the T8 bulbs at least every six months whereas the T5 will only need to be changed every 12 months. So, although the T5 is more expensive, they last twice as long, so they are worth the investment.
As discussed earlier, water dragons are from very hot climates, therefore realistically you need to maintain this expectation in captivity.
During the day you will need to be providing at least 10 to 12 hours of intense heat, in particular up to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. The best way to achieve this is by using some strong 60w basking light bulbs (Click here to see the price on Amazon) towards one end of the tank.
If you are using a particularly narrow enclosure, then you may only require one of these.
During the Night-Time you will need to drop the temperature down. In particular, down to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. However, you also need to reduce the lighting at this as well. This is so that it’s a nice dark atmosphere so that they can get the rest they need.
To achieve this you can use a ceramic bulb (night bulb). The great thing about this, it will still keep the heat but will reduce the light. To complement this, it is a good idea to have a thermostat. The thermostat is good because it can turn on the ceramic bulb automatically when the temperature drops.
UVB is an invisible wavelength that is emitted from the sun. In captivity, these UVB rays are emulated using artificial lighting.
The UV rays are important because it allows your lizard to metabolize the calcium that you feed it. Unfortunately, without these necessary UV rays, there is a good chance that your lizard will become very sick. An example of this is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD).
Other issues that will occur will be the lack of ability to synthesize vitamin D3, which is required by a water dragon. This is something that is required by all almost lizards.
In captivity, the only way to provide UV light without using an artificial UVB bulb is to provide direct sunlight from your window. However, the issue with this is, if you have anything blocking this light, such as your terrarium glass, it will not provide the required UV light needed by your Dragon.
Therefore, in reality, it comes down to a choice of two main types of UVB bulbs:
These fluorescent bulbs usually are mounted within a fixture such as a reflector or Hood (click to see the price on Amazon) to reflect the light into the enclosure.
The UV light that these bulbs emit has a tendency to run out before the actual bulb blows. Therefore it is recommended that you change these bulbs on a regular basis. As discussed earlier, if you’re using a T8 bulb this will need to be every six months. Or if you’re using a T5 bulb then this will be every 12 months.
To make sure that your lizard gets the full benefit of these bulbs it’s important that you keep the correct distance between the lizard and the actual bulb. It is recommended that you maintain a distance of 6 to 8 inches for best results.
In addition to the distance, you have to be careful about the materials that you place around it the bulbs. Because if you get it wrong, it will not be able to penetrate it. An example is plastic or glass.
So it is important that you mount it in the enclosure so that the UV light can be passed on to your water dragon effectively.
These bulbs are ideal for large enclosures and they have the ability of emitting UVA and UVB rays. They can also provide heat as well as this lighting so they are like a two in one solution.
The advantages of the mercury vapor bulbs is it can last a lot longer than the fluorescent bulbs, however, there are some debates that the level of UV rays is too intense for reptiles and shouldn’t be used.
Others have argued and there are many lizard keepers who use Mercury vapor lighting without any issues and swear by it. So it depends on your views on this matter.
If you do decide to go with the Mercury vapor bulbs it is a good idea to keep a good distance of at least 12 to 24 inches away from your lizard. Also, provide some good cool spots for them to move away from the intensity.
This bulb does everything similar to the fluorescent bulbs discussed earlier. However, it has some advantages and disadvantages, as you could imagine.
Its advantages are it uses less energy than fluorescent lighting. However, they do not provide the same radius of heating because it is a very concentrated UV light.
There are some concerns that the strength of the UV lighting is too intense for some lizards. Other concerns are it is likely that the bulbs will not last as long.
They are also only really viable for small enclosures because they concentrate the heating into a very small area.
Can Chinese water dragons be housed together? Yes, they can. However, you need to make sure that you get the group mix correct. They can share in small groups but is very important not to have more than one male in the enclosure. If you have more than one male, they will fight over territory.
What fruits can Chinese water dragons eat? They can eat a wide variety of fruits. Such as Melon (such as cantaloupe), blueberries, raspberries and more.
How can you tell if a Chinese water dragon is male or female? There is a difference in their head size. Females have smaller heads than the male. Also, you can look at their jowls. Males tend to have bigger puffier sized jowls than females.
Do Chinese water dragons shed? Yes, they do shed. As they begin shedding you will notice a difference in their skin color. You should see it get a bit darker until they shed. They also tend to use water as a way to help the shedding process.
House Gekos are known to make a lot of weird noises. These noises intrigued me, and I wondered why they actually make these noises and what type of noises they actually make. Let me explain more.
Why do house geckos make noise? To mark their territory or attract the attention of females. House Geckos are mainly found as pests in peoples houses and rely on insect infestations to survive. If they feel that a rival lizard is infiltrating their treasure, they will make noise and fend them off.
Now you know why they do this, let me explain how they feel they benefit from these noises. How these noises can indirectly help you, when you understand their objective and how you can tame them to keep them quiet.
I would actually rather take pictures of monitor lizards than common house geckos, but the problem with monitor lizards is they fall off the walls. And I want to remind all of my friends Wikipedia says these are good luck in Asia. #alizardaday #bangkok #thailand #commonhousegecko pic.twitter.com/oCpR4TIlxO
— Joseph Dewey (@semioriginaltht) July 5, 2018
House Lizards, also called House Geckos (Scientific name Hemidactylus frenatus), make various different noises. I will discuss further in the article, There are two main reasons for these weird noises:
Unfortunately House geckos are commonly known as pests in houses around the world. They survive off insects they find in your house.
The noise that they make in this instance is to fend off and warn other house geckos to move away from their food. It is believed that these sounds are best delivered vocally rather than using visual forms of communication.
This is mainly because house buildings create an echoing effect, making the sound more powerful and easier to travel over longer distances.
House geckos make a few different sounds in particular:
The barking sound is believed to be a defence mechanism to ward off other Predators or other rival house geckos, that are trying to infiltrate their territory.
Squeaking is another sound that they make, which is believed to be heard mainly during fights. The clicking sound however is used to entice female geckos for mating.
As discussed earlier these sounds can be linked to territorial issues with other house geckos, in particular the barking sounds.
But let’s step back and understand why they are aggressive in the first place. They are trying to fend off other lizards stealing their food. And as discussed, their food are insects that are found in your house, effectively a pest and a problem in your house, right?
Therefore you can argue that these lizards are actually doing you a good service? Reason being they are eating the insects that are causing a problem in your house.
The real problem is the insects not necessary the house gecko, right?
To put this in perspective let’s say each gecko consumes about 12 insects a day. With that assumption, that would mean over an annual basis, that would be over 4000 insects that your house gecko is consuming.
No lets think deeper, These house geckos are very rarely on their own. You can easily assume for every house lizard that you actually see, you can guarantee there is probably another dozen hidden somewhere else.
Therefore we are talking about tens of thousands of insects are being consumed by these house geckos and helping you with a big pest problem. So, indirectly these weird noises they make are part of cleaning up your insect problem.
Firstly, is it even possible to tame a lizard? The answer to that question is yes. You can definitely tame them. But one thing to consider, taming a lizard will not give you the same results as a pet dog, for example.
You can never expect to get the same affection from a lizard as you do from a dog. For example, you will never be able to hug and kiss a lizard, like some people do with their dogs. This is just not the way it is.
However you can expect your lizard, once it is tamed, to be receptive towards you. Meaning it will come towards you when you approach him. And even eat food from you when you put your hand nearby.
Firstly once you first introduce a house a lizard to your enclosure you need to give them some time to adjust to their new environment. The best way to do this is to literally leave them alone first. Without attempting to touch them. This is advised to be done for at least the first week, maybe a bit less, but a week is or more is better.
Once you passed this initial period and you’ve giving them space to adjust, you then need to present them with some food. But do not hold onto the food and try and coax them towards you. Just simply present them with the food and watch them as they eat it.
This is the first attempt for them to get used to your presence and associate you with positive experiences, such as food.
Once you have got past this stage, the next step is to start introducing food to your house gecko. Using a pair of metal tongs. The idea here is to simply place the food, using the tongs, each day so that the house lizard can see you.
Do this repeatedly for 2 weeks to a month. Be patient, the idea is to gradually let the house gecko start to associate you with being fed and being a positive part of its day.
After you start noticing that this is working the next step is to place the food down using your hands. Each day use your bare hands or gloves, If you do not want to handle the insects. Place the food for the Gecko to come, but do not be tempted to try and grab the Gecko.
You need to take your time and let him come to you. What you should find is, towards the end of this process. If it’s done correctly, your gecko will start to build the trust for you and associate you with being fed on a daily basis. And in time will start to move towards your hands for the food, rather than waiting for you to disappear.
Be patient with this process because it’s not an overnight solution it is something that you have to do bit-by-bit to build up the trust.
Can Lizards hear you? Yes, they can hear but their hearing is very different to us. Instead of flappy ears like we have, they have small holes that are quite visible. The sound is passed through these holes. Their eardrums are just below their skin level. They can’t hear very well, but better than other reptiles such as snakes for example.
What happens if a lizard falls on your left arm? It is believed that you will feel some type of personal shame in the near future. This stems from a number of superstitions that exist around lizards. In fact there is a big list of various different places a lizard can fall on your body and for each one there is an expectation that something will happen.
Do Lizards Smell? Yes, they can do. You wouldn’t expect them to smell, because when you compare them to mammals they do not produce as much feacas. They also do not shed too regularly and they do not mark their territory using urine, like dogs can do. But for some reason they do have a smell.
Do house Geckos Carry diseases? Yes, they can carry salmonella, so you are strongly advised to take caution. This disease can spread by direct or even indirect contact.
How big can a common Lizard grow? On average you can expect them to grow from three to six inches in length. Therefore they are a relatively small lizard. However, in the wild, or as a domestic pest, they are known to travel in numbers, so as a collective it can be quite overwhelming.
If you are like me, you want all the facts before you dive in. Understanding what Green Anoles can live with is important if you want to make the best efficient use of your tank. Let me explain in detail what they can be mixed with and some important things to avoid.
What can live with green Anoles? They can live with house Geckos, various species of Tree frogs and even the Fire-bellied toad. However, it is not a good idea to mix them with brown Anoles, as they are quite aggressive towards the green specie and they will be bullied.
Now that you understand what they can live with, let me give you a bit more detail on the sharing habits, and how to avoid problems. Such as the perfect way to work out how many Anoles to share together. The best way to mix males and females and more.
Deciding to mix and find compatible tank mates can be very challenging in fact it can be quite disastrous if you get this wrong. You stand a good chance of putting your pet lizard at serious risk or at least injuring them in some way, if you do not get it right.
To help you understand which lizards can pair well with a green Anole, I have compiled a list for you.
Firstly, before I begin the list, the first line displayed below is a green or a brown anole. However, I am not suggesting that you consider mixing these together. Because the green and brown Anole do not get along (more on this later in the article). Anyway, here is the list:
This list I have provided is a good mixture of potential combinations. The idea is to mix and pick, not all in one enclosure.
They have been selected due to the fact that they are not as aggressive. Therefore they are likely to get along well and have similar requirements. These requirements refer to diet, temperature, etc. Keep in mind that this is not a guarantee that they will actually work together in perfect harmony.
Sometimes you may have an unexpected “bad egg” that will ruin the harmony of a tank, regardless of the expectation of its bread or specie. However, his is a good general guide to get started.
Sharing male and female animals is quite simple, but you have to be careful about how much space you give them. Also you need to get the combination correct. If you get this wrong you could be in for a big mess.
The simple rule of thumb is, maximum 2 anoles for every 10 gallons of Tank space. To give you some examples of these combinations, let Me Explain. Let’s say that you have 4 Anoles.
And you want to house them all together in an enclosure. Based on this calculation you need to have a 20 gallon tank.
To continue this example, let’s say you have 6 anoles, as you can imagine, you need to have at least a 30 gallon tank, to keep them happy.
This will go on and on with the additional anoles added to the enclosure. However you need to consider the type of enclosure that you purchase as well. Reason being, they need a Tall enclosure, rather than the conventional wide version.
This is because they need to have two levels. The first level (ground level) will be where they will dwell. And the higher second level will typically be where you have your plants and greenery. Which will help the humidity of the tank.
Also after the plants are misted, the water droplets dropdown and nourish the anoles. They do not like to drink from water dishes, so these droplets are mandatory.
Apart from this you also need to consider the male and female mix before you go ahead with your purchase. It is not a good idea to have more than one Male in the enclosure. This is for the simple reason that it is likely to end up in fights.
However one male with multiple females will get along just fine. You should find that one male can easily keep 4 or 5 female anoles more than happy. Just bear in mind, if you do mix this way, there is a good chance that they will mate and breed. So you will need to consider having even more space for the hatchlings.
You may be considering mixing green and brown anoles together. On the surface, this may sound like a good idea. Simply because you may assume that there is nothing much different with these species apart from the obvious colour differences.
Before you do this, let me warn you it is not a good idea. This is for the simple reason that the brown ones are very aggressive, in comparison to there green tank mates. Therefore you will find that your treasured green anoles will be bullied.
In particular, when it comes to feeding or even basking to capture as much heat as they need to survive, they will be pushed out of the way. This can result in the green anoles starving or suffering from heat or calcium deficiencies. Ultimately it could lead to you losing one of the green anoles.
If you are considering sharing the enclosure with multiple Green anoles, in particular mixing the males and females together, you may find that they do indeed eat each other.
But this is mainly to do with hatchlings. In the event that anoles mate, breed and lay eggs. The hatchlings could be at risk of being eaten by one of their tank mates.
As discussed earlier you need to make sure that you have at tall vivarium, which can accommodate a maximum 2 lizards for every 10 gallons of space.
In addition to this, you need to make sure that it is a tall, vertically aligned terrarium. It needs to be very well ventilated. This is because the air ventilation for these lizards is very important for their survival.
It needs to have a lot of plants and greenery which will be located in the higher level of the vertical vivarium.
I can’t emphasise this enough, never go short on the amount of greenery and plants. These can be live plants or alternatively you can go for artificial alternatives. For example, acrylic vvines or other types of artificial greenery.
These lizards would much rather hang out in the green areas, rather than at the lower level hiding in caves.
In the wild green anoles do not eat every single day. They have to hunt for food. And as he can expect they are not guaranteed to be lucky in hunting everyday.
For that reason they can easily live without food for a couple of days, which is even regarded as normal in their natural environment. However for it to become a real serious problem they are likely to be able to live a lot longer than that without food, maybe even a couple of weeks.
However you are not advised to test to see how long they will last. Make sure that they are well fed, if you are looking after them in captivity.
Brown anoles have a similar diet two green anoles. This includes the following?
In addition to this they will even consider eating their own kind, as well as other lizards, such as a skinks. They will even eat old dropped off tails and old shedded skin.
Another interesting fact about their diet, if they are located near water they will even eat small fish or pretty much anything that will fit into their mouth.
After hearing the chirping sounds of a Lizard, you may be concerned or interested to know if Anole Lizards Chirp. Maybe you are considering picking one up as a pet or just interested. I was also interested in the answer to this, so I have decided to write this article to explain.
Do Anole lizards chirp? No, Anole Lizards do not make sound. In fact there are almost 5000 different Lizard species and very few have the vocal ability to make sounds. The gecko is one example of a Lizard that is known to make sounds.
Now that you know about the Anole lizard, let us look into which lizards make this chirping sound, as well as other weird sounds. Not just that, but the reasons why they make these sounds. Also, lets understand other forms of communication that lizards use.
The Gecko is known for making a chirping sound, along with an array of other sounds. It is one of the few lizards that has vocal ability to make sound (more about this later). This chirping sounding is sometimes confused with weird barking sounds too.
It is believed that this chirping sound can happen for one of two reasons:
The first reason, as listed above is for territorial reasons. But what do I mean? Basically it used to repel predators or rival male Geckos.
The second reason is for mating calls. This is relatively straight forward, it is an opportunity for the Gecko to entice the female into its trap for mating.
There are different species of lizards that make weird and wonderful sounds. My objective is to explain to you now what they are.
The first one to discuss is the Mediterranean house gecko. It makes a range of different sounds. Firstly, it’s known to make a chirping sound as well. This is known to be used to fend off his enemies.
In particular, it has a very distinctive “single chirp”. It also has a loud squeak. Again, this is used to ward off enemies as well.
Another one of its sounds is the “click”. This clicking sound is known to attract the opposite sex. Females are lured in for mating.
The turnip-tailed Gecko is known to make clicking sounds as well. These clicking sounds have often been compared to insects. It is almost as if it’s mimicking these insect sounds.
It is also known to make a chirping sound. This is also associated with attracting females for mating.
The New Caledonian Gecko has quite an interesting sound. This sound is quit distinctive. And if you heard it, you would probably be freaked out.
It is known to make a really loud and weird growling sound. Almost like a growling dog. It has also been nicknamed the “Devil in the trees” for this very disturbing growl sound.
The Tokay Gecko lizard is known for its a very distinctive “Tokay” sound. So much so, that it is named based on this sound. if you heard this sound, you would be quite amazed.
This is another gecko which is named based on its distinctive sound. It makes it a weird “Chee Chak” sound, hence the name.
As discussed earlier, Geckos are one of a few lizard species that can make sounds. But the question is, how do they actually make these sounds? Let me explain at a high level.
Geckos actually have vocal cords, which most lizards do not have. As well as this, they have a well developed larynx. Along with this they have cartilage and muscle positioned in their throat to help create the sound.
Air is passed from its lungs and manipulated using its throat muscles. As it passes by the larynx its vocal cords create vibrations. Depending on the frequencies of these vibrations, different sounds are made.
Lizards communicate in a few different ways, not just sound. They communicate using visual (body language), Chemical based communication and also a combination of these. Let me explain this now.
The first example of this is the Green anole. It has what is called a “dewlap”. It is a large throat fan, which can be expanded. This Dewlap has amazing visual communication qualities.
It can entice and trigger ovulation in a female Anole. It can also be used to inflate and discourage any unwanted male predators.
The next example of this visual communication is the Frill-necked lizard. It has an extended flap of skin around its head. This can be inflated and used to intimidate any Predators It may not always work to scare them off, but it is one of their ways of communicating, “do not mess with me”!
The island lizard has a couple of different ways of communicating for a number of different reasons. Firstly it will jump high in the air to grab the attention of the female, to try and differentiate itself from all the other competing males.
They also have an interesting way to flatten out their body and lie on their side, to trick their enemy. If this doesn’t work, this is usually followed by physical confrontation.
Another known communication behaviour from lizards is push-ups. They will literally do push ups to try and send a message to their predators. This may be seen in captivity, for example in a zoo.
It has been known to see lizards doing push-ups, if the see a visitor getting too close to their lizard enclosure.
A good example of these chemical communication methods is the skink. The skink is known to let out chemical pheromones. These pheromones are known to be excreted from its legs.
These pheromones can be decoded by another lizard by smelling and then reacting to the chemical. However lizards do not smell in the same way that we do, as humans. They actually use their tongue which is similar to snakes.
By using their tongue, they can grab the smell and decode the communication methods used by the skink.
Do Anoles Make good pets? Yes, the green and brown anole in particular are great beginner lizards. They are not too big and quite a good place to start with lizard keeping.
What happens if you don’t have the correct housing for your Anole? If you have a Green Anole, for example, If you do not provide the best housing it can get stressed. If this happens a number of health issues can be triggered as well as your Anole turning Brown.
Are Anole Lizards Aggressive? They can be if they are provoked, If you do not handle them properly the Anole could bite. But this is easily avoided by using common sense and treating them with respect.
Do Anoles Mark their Territory? Yes, the Anole uses visual displays to establish and mark their territory. This includes flexing its Dewlap, push-ups and aggressive head motions to make sure that no other male will try and infiltrate their territory.
Keeping Green Anoles is one thing, but breeding them is another. I was interested in how other successful breeders have done it. So I have compiled my research on this for you today.
How do you breed Green Anoles in captivity? You need to have a maximum of one male in the enclosure, to stop any fighting, and provide a few females. Provide the best housing, including temperature, water and humidity. Also the right number of live plants that have been misted to provide necessary water droplets.
Unfortunately many people feel that they just need to have a male and female in an enclosure and “the magic” will happen. Unfortunately that is rarely the case. To be a successful Green Anole breeder you need to have a firm grasp of the basic requirements for it to work. So, let me provide this info for you now.
— iNaturalist (@inaturalist) April 28, 2018
I’m going to start off by giving you a bit of background about the Green Anole, where its from, scientific name, etc, before before we get into the breeding detail below.
The green anole is a bright green specie of the Anolis Genus. Its scientific name is Anolis Carolinensis and it is from the Southern region of the United States.
It has been quite popular as a pet since the 1950s and is a really great starter pet for a beginner Lizard keeper.
Before you rush out and purchase one or even consider breeding, you need to check if you are allowed to own one legally in your state. This is mainly applicable to people living in the United States, in particular, the state of Georgia.
Georgia, for example, have certain permits that are required for certain lizards. So check this out first, before you go any further.
Now I’m going to discuss what is required to breed a green anole successfully. Such as housing, etc.
First and foremost, you need to understand that the actual season of breeding is between April and September.
However, this breeding window is not the only factor that you need to consider to successfully breed.
One of the reasons why people struggle to breed them is because they do not understand the full requirements. Providing a few crickets and roaches and stuffing them in a cramped enclosure is not the recipe for successful breeding.
I you do not get all of their requirements right, they will not breed at all. It’s just a natural bodily function, to remove an unnecessary bodily task such as breeding for survival.
First and foremost you need the correct housing, a normal 20 gallon tank will not be enough. Reason being you need a really tall tank. This is for a few reasons, firstly they like to climb.
But mainly, the male Anole will want to use the upper portion of the tank to create a territory. This second level is also used to have live plants for humidity and water distribution.
You need to spray water (also known as “mist”) on them, so it drips down on to the ground floor level. As it falls, droplets are formed, which the Green Anoles use to drink and keep hydrated (they do not like unnatural water dishes).
These plants need to be sprayed a couple of times for the best results.Also, once you have hatchlings (more on this later) they will also need these necessary droplets.
Now let’s talk about the temperature, lighting and humidity that is required to breed. Firstly, you will need to provide at least 12 hours of lighting every day.
The temperature needs to remain at roughly 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It needs to stay quite humid but also have a kind of airy atmosphere, not too stuffy, are you with me?
The maximum amount of males that you want to have in the enclosure is just one. Don’t worry though, one male can comfortably keep up to 5 females happy, and breeding is not a concern.
Be warned, if you do put more than one male in there, you will find that they will fight and cause problems. They are quite territorial and the first thing that the males will want to do is establish his own territory.
Firstly the male Anole will initiate the process with some vicious head bobbing. This movement, which will attract the female, will also include inflating its impressive dewlap (see image below)
Male green #anole puffing out his throat fan (dewlap) #greenanole #lizard #herp #orlando #florida #nature #wildlife #photography #wildlifephotography #reptile #oaklandnaturepreserve https://t.co/OLdGQePY60 pic.twitter.com/ogVeDsvExj
— Justageekboy (@justageekboy) May 21, 2018
This dewlap, which reflects the UV light, and is seen as a brilliant Colour by the female, induces ovulation by the female. This includes females that may be carrying sperm from the previous breeding season.
The male will appear to be quite aggressive with the female, but do not worry, this is just the way nature intended. It will grab hold of the female and appear to bite the back of her neck.
This is to bring her into position for breeding. After the mating is completed, the male is done with her. She will have enough sperm in her to last for this mating season, as well as right round to the next season.
However ,each time she needs to lay an egg she will need to be courted by a male and see the display of the dewlap to make it happen.
The female will lay one egg at a time. There will usually be 10 to 12 day period between each egg. In total you may get approximately 10-12 eggs. This breeding season will be from Spring up until late autumn.
Each ovary will essentially be responsible for one egg. Once each egg is laid, it is usually buried in the substrate. A good substrate for this is soil by the way. This is because they will dig and leave it on the surface or into the soil.
Ideally you want to make sure that you’ve got good substrate and plants available. This will give them ample choices where to hide and bury their eggs. Once the eggs are laid you can leave some for natural development and some you may consider putting into incubation.
You can expect them to be hatched within 6 to 8 weeks. This is assuming that they have been incubated correctly at 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
The incubation needs to done at a controlled temperature, from 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. You can place the incubation container (this can be a simple plastic cup) into the incubator.
In addition to the cup, they will also need to be covered in vermiculite or you can use moist sphagnum moss too.
You can also consider putting them into an appropriate attic at room temperature. Providing it has the right setup.
Hatchlings are notoriously difficult to rear. This is because they are quite aggressive. They have a natural instinct to attack their offspring. They also have a tendency to get very dehydrated. This is unless you provide the necessary water they need to survive.
As discussed earlier, their water requirements is as follows: Same as the adults, they will not enjoy drinking water from a water dish, so do not waste your time by providing this. Instead as discussed earlier, make sure you have a lot of live plants that are sprayed (mist) daily allowing water droplets to form, which they will drink from.
For food, you need to provide small insects for them. and this could be baby crickets, fruit flies, etc. But you need to make sure that they are well fed, watered and looked after you.
When it comes to survival of these hatchlings unfortunately they are under constant threat from birth. This includes other siblings, as discussed earlier. Not just this, also other adult lizards within the same enclosure. They are likely to attack them. Fortunately there are some which go quickly and will be able to survive to become full sized.
What happens if you Green anole is feeling Stressed? If you Anole is feeling stressed, your green Anole may turn brown, This is an indication that they are unhappy and an opportunity for you to fix the problem.
Brown Anoles are great little pets, especially when they are well looked after. Their Life expectancy can be dependant on a number of factors that I plan to address in this article.
What is a Brown Anoles Lifespan? On average brown anoles will live for 5 years. However this really depends on how well you treat them in captivity. They require specific heating, lighting and diet specifications for them to avoid any life threatening health conditions.
Now that you know how long they should last, let me explain what you need to avoid and what you need to do to keep them happy and fulfil their expected lifespan.
— Morgan Hughes (@TheReremouse) December 20, 2018
The brown anole is native to Cuba and Bahamas and is a brown coloured anole lizard. Its scientific name is Anolis Sagrei, however it is also known as the Bahaman anole.
Primarily it’s colour is brown, however it does have some black and tanned colours on it’s body.
I will now discuss with you how captivity can affect your brown anole. Firstly in captivity housing of the brown Anole can make a massive difference to its happiness and longevity of his life.
There are a few factors which can affect its housing happines:
Heating issues can cause major problems with your brown anole. They require a very specific heating requirement to keep them happy and healthy. I will talk more in detail on this in the next section, however this can be a big factor for the longevity of their life.
Lighting is another big issue which can cause problems if it is not correctly laid out. In particular UVA and UVB lighting is essential. They need this to aid their calcium levels.
When it comes to sharing it is important that you get the correct mix of lizards. Get this wrong and you will have a major problem o your hands.
Mixing can cause a number of different kinds of related issues. Firstly if we just focus on their own specie only, you have to be careful with how you mix the genders. If you have more than one male in your enclosure, you will face territorial issues and fighting for certain.
Some people attempt to mix the Brown Anole with other Green Anoles. Their assumption is they are pretty much the same, just the difference of colour. However in reality there is quite a difference.
In particular, their behavior. With experience, you will notice that the brown anole is likely to be more dominant and will overpower the Green Anoles. Initially this might be quite subtle, but there will be long-term issues.
Such as the Green Anole being pushed away from basking areas, meaning they get starved of the necessary UVA or UVB lighting. Also simple day-to-day tasks such as eating can be an issue. You may find that they are also getting pushed away and start to become underfed.
Other lizard keepers have also attempted to mix brown anoles with Geckos. This can also be a problem because the geckos can be quite aggressive. Also, the sleeping pattern for some geckos is very different to a brown anole.
For example, some geckos are nocturnal. Meaning their activity is during the Night-Time hours, when the brown anoles are sleeping. You may find that your brown anole lizards are literally getting trampled on in the night. This will obviously cause them some major health issues. And may even cause a reduction in their life expectancy.
Now that we have covered some of the issues that can affect the life expectancy of a brown anole. I now want to discuss what you can do to improve their life expectancy. In particular I will be covering housing improvements, such as providing the correct substrate, cover, space, lighting, etc.
Firstly let’s talk about the substrate. To keep your your them happy it’s important to get the right substrate. If you have a healthy and happy lizard, there is a good chance that there will be breeding happening.
With the assumption that you’re mixing males and females. In this case it’s a good idea to have a good soil-based substrate. This is great because it’s a natural substrate. It is also handy when it comes to planting live plants.
The additional benefit of this is that you can pot the plants directly into the substrate, without having to have a separate container for them. Whenever they lay their eggs, they can burrow and dig into the soil and keep the eggs safe.
You will find that your brown anole will really appreciate some good cover and space. Therefore, if you are using live plants, it will appreciate hiding around them. It will also appreciate other accessories such as bark.
One tip to know, if you are using plants in the enclosure, is to make sure that there’s nothing toxic on the plants. This can then pass on to your lizard and cause health issues. It also may reduce its life expectancy.
I’m going to explain the heating a lighting requirement to keep your brown and all happy.
If you have multiple Anoles in your enclosure you need to have at least two or three basking spots. They really do appreciate these basking areas and it is important for their health and wellness.
This is also mimicking their natural environment, where they will have multiple options to bask. You will also find that some of them will group together on one basking spot.
The best way to achieve this is to have lighting which has UVA and UVB and place these lighting fixtures approximately 8 inches away from the basking areas, to get the optimum light rays to them.
For this you will need a 60w bulb to achieve the ultimate light and the basking areas should reach up to temperatures of around 95 degrees Fahrenheit. You should also be providing a Cooler area which goes anything from 75 up to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
You can also consider swapping out the 60w spot bulbs with a UV light instead, however I must warn you that this can work out to be quite expensive. If your budget is not an issue then go for it, however if you would like to reduce costs there is a better way.
Instead of these UV bulbs you can actually get a UV heat strip and attach it to the length of the enclosure. Make sure it’s the full length of the enclosure and it has reflectors to make sure that the lighting is reflecting in the right direction.
However if you are using UV bulbs it is important that you replace them every 6-8 months, to make sure that they are emitting the correct lighting. Do not wait until they blow, just replace them on a regular cycle to maintain the correct lighting.
With regards to heat mats or heat rocks it’s probably not a good idea to use these they are not really the natural behaviour of the brown anole and and if there is a requirement to have extra heating during the night and infrared bulb will be more than adequate for this.
Will baby Anoles drink from a water dish? No, baby Anoles prefer to drink from droplets faling from live plants in the enclosure. If you provide water dish, the chances are it will get ignored.
Keeping a Bearded Dragon is easy if you know how to play with it. Playing with it will improve your bond and keep him happy. All my memories of having fun as a child are largely around playing games with my friends or family.
What do bearded dragons play with? Bearded Dragons have a number of options in captivity, such as playing with a ping pong ball, using a simple house mirror, small bridges in their enclosure, hiding in a simple hideout in their enclosure or even playing “hunt the food”.
Now you know what they play with, let me give you some detailed explanations of how you can set these games up, other suggested activities and explain the mental benefits of playing with your Beardie.
— Emlin McDonough (@SpaceForBrains) March 10, 2019
In the section I’m going to discuss why you need to consider playing with your bearded dragon. You may be tempted to think this is a complete waste of time. However, have a think, how would you react if you were stuck in a 10 or 20 gallon tank with nothing to play with?
Just like humans bearded dragons need some form of stimulation and motivation to enjoy their life. The type of stimulation that I’m going to suggest is commonly known as enrichment. This is physical as well as mental stimulation.
This can improve the life of your bearded dragon. Not just physically but mentally. You may even increase his life expectancy.
I will now list a few activities and items that you can use to play with your bearded dragon. This will keep them happy.
One great thing that you can use to play with your bearded dragon is a simple ball. Yes, a ball! This can be a ping pong ball or even a small rubber one, just make sure its not too big.
The idea is to try and entice your bearded dragon to play with the ball. Obviously if he looks or moves it he will be interested by the movement, which will stimulate him to play with it.
For the best results with this, get a bright coloured ball. This will catch his attention and make him go nuts!
Another toy that you can introduce to the bearded dragon’s tank is a simple mirror. This mirror wall trigger some interesting behaviour from your bearded dragon.
Bearded dragons are quite territorial, so if they believe that another bearded dragon is infiltrating their space, they will do weird things. In particular weird behaviours. They will either be submissive or to tell the other infiltrator to get away.
So you can expect one of two actions to happen either it will do a weird kind of “head bobbing” movement or it may do what is known as the “bearded dragon wave”.
The head bob will indicate that it wants to tell the mirror, which it believes to be another bearded dragon, to steer clear and move away. Basically trying to show it who is the boss.
On the other hand, if it does a wave. This is to tell the mirror, or the other bearded dragon in its head, that it is scared and submitting. Basically he doesn’t want any trouble.
One word of warning with this, do not leave the mirror in there for extended periods of time. This is because this may stress out your bearded dragon. So limit it to 10 to 15 minutes at a time at best.
You can trigger a similar reaction without a mirror if you are interested. It can also work if you put two bearded dragon enclosures close together. Once they get sight of each other, you should see either a head bob or a wave. Again, this is not something that you should do for a long period of time though.
— ᴾ¹ᵡ³ᴸᵀᴿ⁴ᶳᴴ (@P1x3ltr4sh) April 3, 2019
Another great game that the bearded dragon would like to do is climbing over your body.
Once you build a bond and get your bearded dragon comfortable with handling, you can literally just place the bearded dragon on your body. A suggestion for this, try lying on the floor then placing the bearded dragon on your body and allowing him to explore you.
Not everyone is comfortable with this, and to be honest not every bearded dragon will be interested either. But if you feel this is something that might benefit your beardie, then go for it. By the way, this is not something that you should do on a regular basis either.
Bearded dragons love to burrow and hideaway. So, one way that you can stimulate this behaviour, and allow them to enjoy playing, is to setup a simple hideaway.
For example, this could be a simple cat hideout or a special Breaded Dragon bridge (click to see the price on Amazon) it could even be an old jumper that you use. It can use it to burrow away under. Allow your bearded dragon to have some fun with this.
Another toy that you can add, that your bearded dragon can play with, is a simple bridge. This can be something that you create yourself or you can purchase.
The idea is to stimulate your bearded dragons natural pleasure of climbing. It will basically allow it to go from one point of the enclosure to the other over the bridge.
This is not a massive playtime stimulation on its own, but with a combination of these things in this article it all adds up.
You may even want to explore or allow your bearded dragon to go for a swim. This is a great pastime for some bearded dragons.
I say some because not all bearded dragons take to water favourably, if your bearded dragon is one that does like this then go for it.
A great suggestion for this is to get a small kiddies paddling pool, making sure it’s not too deep and maybe put some accessories in the pool such as some rocks or other things. Gently ease your bearded dragon into the paddling pool and see if he takes the the water and enjoys it first.
However, be warned you do not want to leave your bearded dragon in the water unattended because it may get stressed in the water and may not want to be in there, also you need to look out for Predators that may see your bearded dragon on its own.
Also if you are doing this it needs to be on a particularly hot day to make sure that they’ve got the right temperature.
Another thing that you can consider doing is allowing your bearded dragon to go for a natural hunt, just like they are in their natural habitat.
In captivity they are reliant on receiving food from you on a regular basis. But using this game you can place the food in an open area, such as a home patio or a really well maintained, low cut lawn, and literally place the insects in random locations. Giving your bearded dragon an opportunity to find its own food.
Taking your bearded dragon for a walk is another great activity that will keep him happy and playful.
To do this you need to attach a harness to your bearded dragon. This is so that he does not run away. In addition to this, you will need to make sure that it is an environment where there are no other predators. Such as family pets, like cats. Also even little toddlers can be a threat, they may be inclined to grab or hurt the lizard.
It is unlikely that your lizard will want to go for a long walk, so keep in mind it’ll be pretty much a small little walk. In reality it won’t be so much of a real walk per say, it’ll be more of an inspection of the environment. You can expect the majority of the time, your lizard will probably be looking around, more than walking.
One word of warning though, make sure that, wherever you decide to take your bearded dragon, you do not let it walk on any environment that may has harmful pesticides. This is because it could ingest these pesticides and make it feel sick.
Another great game that you can play with your bearded dragon is creating a food treasure hunt. What this means is you would effectively hideaway some food that it naturally loves. Then allow it to find it on its own.
To achieve this you could put it in a simple plastic container or maybe hidden under an item within the enclosure. Or you may even want to get festive, for example Easter, and create a themed container.
Do Bearded Dragons like to be handled? Initially no, however once you build a bond with them they will get to know and trust you. You just have to make sure that you handle them correctly (Click to get more info on this) once you build the trust.
If you are interested in the predators of a Bearded Dragon, you are in the right place. This was something that had me thinking and I was keen to share my research with you today.
What Eats Bearded Dragons? Bearded dragons can be eaten by birds of prey, snakes, foxes or even pet cats. They do however have a good line of defence to deter any of these predators such as its spikey head or inflating its throat to intimidate its enemy.
So, these are the predators. But let me now explain exactly how they defend themselfs, how they have adapted to their environment to survive and fend off their enemies, and more.
In this section I’m going to discuss all of the predators of a bearded dragon. This is while it is a wild animal in its natural habitat.
There are a number of predators for the bearded dragon including the following: birds of prey, snakes, pythons, foxes and cats.
In addition to this, there is also goannas (these are lizards). And, believe it or not, they are even sometimes hunted by their own kind. Meaning bearded dragons will attack other bearded dragons.
One of their most subtle defensive mechanisms that that use against their Predators is changing their colour. They can adapt their colour based on their environment or surroundings.
For example, in a sandy or Rocky area, you will find different colour variations of bearded dragons. So, you may find a more yellowish colour bearded dragon in a sandy location in the world.
Another self defensive move that they use is by making them self appear to be a lot bigger than they are. In particular, they use their “beards”. Hence the reason why they’re called the “bearded dragon”.
What they do is inflate their throat to make their head area look a lot bigger than it is. This is to intimidate their predators. This is in the hope that it will make them think twice about attacking. Sometimes they even make their beard turn black as they do it.
Other things that they use is the spikes on their head. In reality, these spikes are really not that prickly or dangerous. If you actually put your hand on it you would know what I mean.
However, they are the perfect deterrent from predators. Just the sight of it makes them think it’s a risk make them think twice about attacking.
In this section, I’m going to talk about adaptions that the bearded dragon has adopted. It is essentially how they have evolved to deal with dangers or challengers of their environment. This has helped them survive in the wild.
Firstly I will discuss some of their social and communication type adaptions. One of them is “waving their hands”. Which is a show to the enemy a sign of submission.
In addition to this, one of the more commonly known actions, is his “head bobbing”. This is typically associated with a challenge directed at an opposing lizard. Basically telling them to back off.
Other Adaptions include their climbing ability. Which is used in two ways: one for survival and one for temperature control. For survival they sometimes climb onto high rocks to avoid their prey.
As for temperature control, they are known to climb to high spots so that they can bask in the sun, so they can get the necessary sun rays, which helps them generate vitamin D.
In addition to this, they also have the ability to dig burrows. This is so that they can actually avoid the heat when it gets too much for them. This is so they have the ability to enjoy the heat but can escape and hide when necessary.
Now I will discuss the bearded dragons eating habits. Bearded dragons are omnivores, meaning that they eat a combination of bugs, vegetables and fruit. However, depending on what stage of it’s life cycle, this split of bugs and vegetables can vary quite a lot.
As young baby bearded dragons you will often find that the majority of their food intake is insects. They may even have up to 80% bugs and the remaining 20% will be plants and vegetables.
Adults on the other hand will be almost the complete opposite, with the majority of their diet being plant or vegetable based. You may notice that they may even only have about 20% of bugs.
If you are interested to know exactly what kind of veg and insects you can feed your bearded dragon. I will list a few of these.
Firstly vegetables and fruit that they consume: these vegetables can be cucumber, radishes, onions. And for fruit an example would be apples, blueberries, cranberries, etc.
Here is a few examples of the insects that they typically eat: A lot of different types of worms for example, Wax worms, super worms, earth worms, crickets, roaches, etc.
However, please make sure that you do not just feed them any type of bug that you find around the house. Although this may sound like a pretty good way of dealing with your pest control problem, it could actually be detrimental to your pet. It could also cost you in vet bills when you’ve got a sick bearded dragon to deal with.
The problem is you do not know where these insects or a bugs, around your house, has been. It may even have parasites or harmful bacteria, which could infect your bearded dragon.
One of the biggest issues that affect bearded dragons is dehydration, unfortunately some people are led to believe that they do not need to provide that much water for their bearded dragons.
This misconception is because they’re naturally from a desert area in their natural habitat. however this is not the case and they do need to be hydrated correctly.
Symptoms of this problem would be if you notice that your bearded dragon is drinking a lot when you present the water to it. Almost as if it’s gasping for water. Secondly you may see that it’s acting a bit lethargic and not behaving properly.
Other signs you may notice is its skin appearing to be wrinkled. If you suspect it has dehydration it is a good idea to take him to your local vets just to get him checked out.
Impaction is when your bearded dragon consume something that it cannot or finds very difficult to digest. A classic example of this is substrate, in particular the particle based substrates, such as sand.
This is why some people have reservations about using sand as substrate for these reasons. Symptoms you may notice include your bearded dragon struggling to poo, foreign objects in it’s faeces, lack of appetite, etc. If you suspect this its best that you should immediately visit your vet.
Secondly you can also consider providing a warm bath for the bearded dragon and gently rubbing his belly. The idea behind this is it supposed to induce or stimulate the bowel movement.
The best advise is to get your vet to help you. They may be able to prescribe something to help him get past this. And also give you advice on how to prevent this happening in the future. Maybe it could be as simple as changing to a good substrate (Click to see the best).
This disease shows signs of yellow patches on your lizard. It is often caused by poor living conditions. May be due to neglected enclosures. Maybe they have not been properly maintained.
The problem with this disease, it’s highly contagious. So, if you have more than one bearded dragon in the enclosure, you will definitely need to separate them. This is to keep the others safe.
The first thing you need to do is to take your bearded dragon to the vet to get some advice. Secondly, you need to make sure that you keep it quarantined, if it’s not on it’s own already. Going forward you need to make sure that you have or improve the cleanliness of their living conditions. Also discover if bearded dragons enjoy human contact? (Click to see).
If you are like me, the thought of getting a new pet, such as a crested Gecko, starts to make you think of all the things that it may or might do. Understanding if it has teeth is important because you need to know if it will even bite you, or if its bites will hurt. Let us dive in.
Do crested geckos have teeth? Yes, but they are not sharp or any real threat. If you are bitten by one, it is more of a mild nip, more than anything. They will bite, but only in self-defence, in reality they are quite docile and well behaved pets.
So, now you know that Cresties have teeth, the question is what do they use these teeth for? Could they bite you? are they dangerous around your children or pets? Let me answer these questions for you now.
WE ARE NOT NAMING HIM JEFF pic.twitter.com/hZDGZ7qtZE
— Myscalybabies (@myscalybabies) October 30, 2017
As discussed, Cresties do have teeth, but they are very small. They are not sharp at all, in fact they are so ineffective that they typically eat soft fruits, which are overripe or even pureed. They also often swallow insects (small insects) whole. So their teeth do very little when it comes to breaking down the food that they consume.
If you are a Crested Gecko keeper, and you offer them insects, it is important that you get the portion sizing right, to avoid choking them. As I have explained earlier, they consume some foods whole, so the size is critical.
A general rule of thumb is that you should not offer them insects which are bigger than the distance between their eyes.
Generally speaking the crested gecko is quite a docile and well behaved lizard. They are ideal for pets, especially for a beginner keepers. However they will bite you if they are aggravated. But this is quite rare.
This is not really their temperament or usual behaviour. If you try to handle them too much or touch them when they are not used to you, then prepare yourself to get bitten. This is a natural defensive mechanism.
Even if you are bitten by a Crested Gecko, the reality is the bite is really nothing to be worried about. It is more of a nip than a real bite. As discussed earlier, typically they are well behaved and are not really up for biting.
Crested geckos do not necessarily like to be handled all the time. Especially when they are new to an enclosure or to you in general. If you try to handle them when they do not expect it, they will probably give you a nip.
As explained earlier, in general they are quite well behaved and you can actually train them to get used to you. And with training you can learn how to handle them correctly (more on this later).
As discussed earlier Cresties are usually well behaved, and are a good lizard for children. They are also good for beginner lizard keepers because they are low maintenance and easy to look after.
However, whenever you involve children into the mix you still need to be quite cautious. It is advised that you monitor your children’s behaviour with any lizard, or pet for that matter.
Especially if they are young children. You need to make sure that they understand and respect lizards and how to treat it. A lizard is quite small and delicate in comparison to a child, and if they are pulled, squeezed or prodded, they can react violently and may lash out, scratch or bite as a defensive mechanism.
Let me explain some of the concerns or best solutions for keeping crested geckos around your house pets. Whether this be cats, dogs or any other popular domestic pet.
If we take cats as an example, they are natural hunters. They will always be inquisitive and looking for small moving animals, such as mice and unfortunately your crested gecko.
Your Crestie is relatively small and moves around fast, it is a target and will be seen as food to your cat. Doesn’t matter how much you try to train your cat not to attack your lizard, if there is a slight opportunity, your cat will definitely strike.
There are some obvious hazards as well as some that are not so obvious the ones. An example of a not so obvious one, is your cat lying or sleeping on top of the lizard enclosure (Click here to see the best enclosures) that you have for your crested gecko.
The problem is, it may inadvertently knock the enclosure over. As soon as your crested gecko is exposed, it will be seen as food for your cat. So, the best thing to do is to have a secure cover on the enclosure.
To be perfectly honest with you the ideal solution, to avoid any chance of your lizard being harmed, is to have him in a completely separate room, with that room closed off by a door. This would mean that your cat, or dog for that matter, would not have an opportunity to strike and attack your lizard whether you were in the room or not.
However I understand that this is not always possible in everyone’s house but is more of an ideal. In the absence of not having a completely separate room available, you just need to secure the enclosure as much as possible.
When it comes to handling crested geckos they are usually fine with a weekly clean out of their enclosure which will include clearing out any substrate that’s not required or any missed as built up during the week and may also include relocating them using your hands while you clear out the enclosure
However not all crested geckos like to be handled all the time and even the most docile crested gecko main it if you grab it at the wrong time
Brand new crested geckos whether they are new to your enclosure or are baby ones that have hatched it is a good idea to leave them for at least a couple of weeks to get climatised to the new enclosure before considering handling them
4 female geckos that are established but are gravid and when I say gravid this is the Reptile term for pregnant this term is sometimes mistaken as pregnant in lizards but in reality pregnancy is only a term for mammals that lay live birth where is eggs that are laid are referred to as gravid birth
If you have a gravid female she may be a little bit inclined to nipper you because she is being defensive about what she is carrying if you are bitten you could be tempted to drop her as a shock but you need to be careful with this because if you drop her gravid female there is a chance that you could cause damage to the eggs inside of her and a couple of things could happen she could find that she’s not able to lay the leg eggs very easily or you could damage the eggs inside which could cause internal injuries so you need to be extra careful when they are actually gravid
Teenage geckos need to be handled with care because they are in their growing stage and they can be unpredictable sometimes and made mistake in your fingers for food and may occasionally give you a little nip
In this section I’m going to give you some tips about how you can handle crested geckos the right way. And how you can get them used to handling and being around you.
The best time of day to handle a crested geckos is in a daytime. This is because, in the night-time they may be darting around and are harder to become relaxed and used to you.
One of the best techniques that you can use is something which is called “hand walking”, and this is effectively allowing your crested gecko to run up and down your arms. It sounds a little bit scary at first, while you’re reading this, but in reality it is fine.
You just need to take your time with it and allow your crested gecko to walk up your arm and then provide the next arm and it gradually it will walk up your arms like a slinky.
Overall the best advice is to start slow and give your leopard gecko time to get used to you. You can start off by just doing 1 or 2 minutes a day. Then see how they react to you and in time you can gradually increase this to 15 minute periods.
You can also avoid using your hands to begin with if you wish. You could instead start by getting them used to other objects, such as cardboard tubing or any other item that you feel is necessary. Then gradually move them towards your hands after they get comfortable with this.
If this is done correctly you should be seeing positive result within about a month of consistent training and handling. In some cases you may get a really stubborn crested gecko that doesn’t really want to be handled, or is quite jumpy. This is quite rare, but unfortunately you will get some of these sometimes.
Even if this is the case, you should see a marked improvement. Even if it’s not exactly what you prefer. But it will help nevertheless
How big is a crested Gecko? They can grow up to 8 inches in total length, thats from snout to the end of their tail. They are not big, but not too small either, a good sized pet.